When the Grand-Place becomes Auguste again
The brothers Daniel & Emmanuel Ulaj
There was a time when Brussels’ Grand-Place was the beating heart of the city… Back then, Flagey was still a no man’s land where nobody ventured, and the Châtelain was better known for its “table dancing” and cafés where people came to gamble away their wages on bingo.
Since then, Brussels’ centre of gravity has shifted. The city has grown, its habits have evolved, and the Grand-Place has struggled to keep its place… its rank, I should say.
The Rue des Bouchers, meanwhile, has sadly narrowed. For security reasons, we were told. The result: terraces disappearing, activity fading, and a street that has lost much of its soul. Seen from that angle, it is true that a lifeless street is unlikely to make anyone want to lose themselves in it.
Back then, the Cave du Roy was still royal. Les Armes de Bruxelles welcomed the capital’s notables and its great conversations. Behind their famous counter, Jacques, Madame Suzanne and their son Laurent Veulemans embodied that Brussels zwanze, that art of hospitality in which humour and plain speaking were also on the menu.
It was a time when Brussels did not simply have a history: it still knew how to tell it.
Fortunately, a few diehards are holding out. Just steps from the Grand-Place, La Roue d’Or, with its woodwork from another era and frescoes inspired by Magritte, remains one of those last refuges where Brussels residents can rediscover a little of their history around a good table.
We should also pay tribute to the Taverne du Passage and Le Marmiton, in the Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, which each perpetuate, in their own way, the tradition of the great Brussels establishments.
A little further away, around Sainte-Catherine, La Belle Maraîchère also continues to champion the art of hospitality that once made our capital’s reputation.
Because, ultimately, it is not only the restaurants that have changed. A whole way of living Brussels seems to have drifted away from its historic centre.
Give Caesar what belongs to Auguste!
And then, sometimes, a single address is enough to bring back a smile. After trying to bring American-style rock to the Grand-Place with the Hard Rock Café, perhaps it was time to give Caesar what belongs to Auguste!
That is precisely what the brothers Daniel and Emmanuel Ulaj have set out to do, bringing new life to the Maison du Roi de Bavière, at number 12A on the Grand-Place. The history of this house goes back well beyond its baroque reconstruction in 1699, as it stands on the site of two older houses destroyed during the bombardment of Brussels in 1695.
Three centuries later, the Ulaj brothers had the good sense not to reinvent the Grand-Place, but simply to restore a little of its panache.
And what a pleasure to find an address where you want to see and be seen, but above all to return! A real brasserie, elegant without being stuffy, where you can drop in with friends, gather your family or invite visitors from abroad without having to apologise for the setting. As a bonus, the windows offer a magnificent view of one of the most beautiful squares in the world. The Grand-Place as a backdrop, Brussels as an art of living. That has rather more style than a collection of electric guitars!
Here, the woodwork, parquet floors and historic character regain their rightful place. And to crown it all, Belgian designer Charles Kaisin has created Tourbillon, a spectacular installation of nearly 8,000 suspended origami pieces spanning the floors. A contemporary touch that speaks to the heritage without trying to steal the spotlight.
Proof that you can be plugged in without unplugging history!
From Auguste to Escoffier, it is only a place setting away!
But perhaps the greatest delight is on the plate… and on the bill!
With their generous Franco-Belgian cooking, the Ulaj brothers are bringing the great brasserie classics back into the spotlight. And since the establishment is called Auguste, it is hard not to think of Auguste Escoffier, that genius of French gastronomy who raised the art of hospitality to the level of the fine arts. A first name that certainly has taste!
Here, you do not need an imperial bill to dine royally.
And speaking of good deals, from 1 October until 30 November, the house is running a mussel offer that is worth the trip in itself: 1.3 kg of jumbo Zeeland mussels à la marinière for €18.90, served with fresh fries cooked in beef fat. Mussels with white wine are listed at €23.90.
At that price, right in the heart of Brussels, it is enough to reconcile Brussels residents with their Grand-Place!
But what won me over most, beyond the setting and the food, was finding two genuinely passionate people at the helm. During my visit, Daniel and Emmanuel were both on the restaurant floor, taking excellent care of their customers, attentive to the smallest detail and sharing their enthusiasm for their cooking and their establishment. No invisible owners hiding behind a prestigious sign: here, the two brothers roll up their sleeves, welcome guests, offer advice and bring their restaurant to life with infectious energy. And frankly, it is a pleasure to see!
Because true luxury is not always a question of price, but of surroundings, hospitality and shared enjoyment. On that front, the Ulaj brothers have clearly understood the recipe.
A Grand-Place regaining its panache, a brasserie with style and two brothers who understand hospitality: here is an address that certainly lives up to its name.
This new momentum does a world of good. Let us hope it inspires other establishments to combine respect for heritage with contemporary boldness. Preserving our history does not mean putting it under glass, but bringing it back to life, giving it movement and reasons to return.
Rome was not built in a day, and the rebirth of our Grand-Place will not happen through a single address. But with initiatives such as the Ulaj brothers’, we find ourselves dreaming of Brussels residents fully reclaiming this jewel that is theirs.
After all, we have the most beautiful Grand-Place in the world. It is high time we enjoyed it again!
And since the house is busy, take advantage of mussel season to discover it before 30 November… but remember to book!
Brasserie Auguste — practical information
Brasserie Auguste — Grand-Place 12A, 1000 Brussels.
- Telephone: 02 669 50 80
- Email: contact@brasserie-auguste.be
- Website: brasserie-auguste.be
- Open: 7 days a week, 11 am–11.30 pm. Kitchen until 11 pm.
